Mexicali Blues

Back in the day, I worked for a start-up restaurant company in Philadelphia called Cool Peppers. I helped build and open four stores in three years before we ran out of money and had to shutter them all.  A shame, too because we were way ahead of our time, pioneering a type of restaurant (fresh Mexican grill) that had not seen the light of day in the East. (When we started, Chipotle only had two restaurants open, now they have well over 1000) Fresh Mexican was a tough sell in 1995, especially in a cheese steak and hot pretzel town, but we gave it one helluva run. 

While I was there, I apprenticed under Chef Corbin Evans, who created the original menu and concept with his dad, Ken. Chef Corbin taught me how to cook in a professional kitchen and he taught me the chemistry of cooking. He also, although I’m sure he has no idea, instilled a passion for food in me that remains to this day and has in fact grown much stronger since we closed the last Cool Peppers. He taught me to never compromise on freshness and quality and to never, ever serve food that was not up to the high standards we created. The following recipes are based on ones he created for the original Cool Peppers menu. I still long for our Mucho Grande burrito, freshly made tortillas, garlicky tomato rice, black beans and guacamole. Thankfully the recipes remain. I lost touch with Chef Corbin soon after the Cool Peppers experience. Recently I heard he was teaching at a cooking school in New York. One of these days I am going to look him up, just to say thanks.

Tortilla Soup

We didn’t make this too often at the restaurant, maybe every other week depending on demand, and the recipe has evolved some, (The roasted corn was something I added later) but it was one of my favorite things to make (and eat). The key to the dish is preparing stock from scratch (recipe follows) and serving it with lots of fresh squeezed limes. 

4 cups onion, small dice

2 cups bell pepper, small dice

2 cups carrots, small dice

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 TBL tomato paste

2 cans of green chiles

2 quarts chicken stock (See below)

Shredded chicken from stock

4 ears roasted corn (See below)

2 avocados, cubed

2 oz. shredded tortillas, cut into small cubes

6 fresh corn tortillas cut into thin strips and fried until crisp.

Shredded Monterey Jack or Chihuahua cheese

Fresh lime wedges

Olive oil

S&P to taste

1. Coat the bottom of a large Dutch oven with olive oil and heat under medium high heat until shimmering

2. Add onion, carrots and bell pepper and sweat vegetables until softened, about 5 minutes.

3. Add garlic for and sauté 2 min until fragrant.

4. Add tomato paste and stir to incorporate vegetables. Heat until moisture evaporates, stirring often.

5. Deglaze with one cup of the stock and stir, scraping up the fond. (Browned bits on bottom of pan)

6. Add the rest of the stock, simmer and skim for about an hour and a half, skimming any foam that rises to the surface.

7. Add cubed tortillas and simmer 15 min.

8. Add chicken and corn and simmer another 15 min.

9. Taste and adjust seasonings, remove from heat.

10. When ready to serve, ladle hot soup into bowls, top with cheese, 2 oz. shredded chicken, avocado and lime wedges.

Chicken Stock

One whole chicken plus four chicken thighs

2 Bell peppers, med dice

2 One large Vidalia onion, med dice

Three carrots, scraped clean and cut into 1/2 in. "coins"

3 cloves garlic, crushed

½ C White Wine

In a 3 qt. Dutch oven, coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil and heat until shimmering.

1.    Brown chicken thighs in olive oil, remove and reserve

2.    Add vegetables and sauté for 3 minutes

3.    Deglaze pot with white wine and stir

4.    Add whole chicken and thighs and cover with water.

5.    Bring to a boil and skim any scum that rises.

6.    Add bay leaf, black pepper, Italian parsley, and Salt, simmer for 1:15.

7.    Remove chicken from pot, let cool, and remove meat from bones

8.    Add bones back to stock and simmer one more hour to hour and a half, pick through and shred chicken and reserve

9.    Strain stock, discarding solids, strain again in fine mesh strainer and reserve.

Makes about 2 Qts.

Cool Peppers “Firegrilled” Salsa

My life changed the moment I first tasted this grilled tomato salsa. It was by far our most popular and I made it almost every day for three years – well over 500 batches. Grilling the tomatoes adds an indescribable smoky flavor, the charred onions provide a soft, sweet crunch and the lime and serranos add bright citrusy heat. It’s a simple and versatile salsa that works with tortilla chips, on tacos and in the above tortilla soup. But it also works brilliantly with grilled flank steak, chicken or a nice cut of tuna or swordfish.

5 lbs ripe roma tomatoes

2 medium size onions (Vidalia work well)

2 serrano chiles

Juice from one lime

Kosher salt

1. Grill tomatoes, onions and chiles on a hot grill until blackened all over and soft, gently turning on the grill

2. Place tomatoes in a large bowl, reserve tomato juices that collect around the tomatoes and let cool

3. Meanwhile roughly chop the onions and mince the chiles

4. Pulse tomatoes in a blender and pulse a few times until chunky yet smooth. Do not puree.

5. Add onions and chiles and mix well. If the mixture is too thick, add a little of the tomato water.

6. Add about 1 T of salt, lime juice, mix well and let stand at room temperature.

7. Taste and add lime and salt to taste (The key here is balancing all the flavors)

8. You may freeze unused portion for up to 3 months, but it’s best to eat this salsa when it’s fresh.

Grill Roasted Corn

Corn is delicious on the grill right off the cob with a little chile-lime butter, but it really makes the tortilla soup (or any other recipe that calls for canned corn) come alive.

4 ears corn, half shucked (Remove the husk from half the corn, exposing kernels, and just the outer leaves of the other half

1. Grill kernel side down until blackened, about 4-5 minutes.

2. Turn on to husk side and grill for another 4 minutes, watching for husk “flare-ups.”

3. Cut corn off the husks, break up kernels and reserve.

4. Scrape the “milk” from the cob with the back of a large chef’s knife and add to kernels.

Chile-lime butter

1 stick unsalted butter softened

1TBL chili powder

1 tsp. cayenne pepper or a few shakes of Tabasco sauce

3 T lime juice (about half a lime)

1 tsp. kosher salt

1. Cream butter with remainder of ingredients, roll into a round “log” in a piece of saran wrap

2. Put into fridge until well chilled.

Use as you would use regular butter. Especially good on corn or a juicy ribeye.

Sunday Gravy

Mary’s Sunday Gravy

Sundays at our house are sacred. But not for any any customary religious reason. It's still an official day of rest, mind you - we just like to cook on Sundays, and we take that very seriously. I guess you could say that we are kitchen baptists, absolving ourselves with acts of culinary contrition. Our communion taken in the form of roasted peppers, bruscetta, Sunday gravy, homemade noodles and of course, wine. One more than a few Sundays during the year, the featured dish is a thick ragu known in Italian American circles as "Sunday Gravy."


When I was about six, I can recall coming in from the yard after playing with my uncles and being frozen in my tracks as I entered my grandmother's kitchen and encountered the heady garlic and tomato perfume. Sitting at the table, I was transfixed by the texture of the pork and the deep flavors of the sauce mixed with the pasta. This recipe is based on that sauce. My grandmother Mary used to make it with tomatoes and onions from her garden in Orchard Park, NY. Thick and meaty, the tender ribs come apart easily with a fork and are a nice foil for the peppery hot sausage. This works with almost any kind of pasta, but pappardelle or rigatoni seem to work best.

3 lbs. Boneless country spareribs, trimmed and cut into thirds

4 Hot Italian Sausages

2 large onions, chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

3 28 oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes

Big glass of Italian red table wine

Basil, or other fresh herbs, chopped

Red pepper flakes

S&P to taste

Olive oil

1. Coat the bottom of a large Dutch oven with olive oil and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering

2. Brown ribs, then sausage. Remove with tongs, cut on the bias into bite sized pieces and reserve.

3. In the same pot, add onions and sweat for 3 minutes. Add smashed garlic and stir well for 2 min. until moisture begins to evaporate from the onions.

4. Deglaze pan with glass of wine, scraping up fond on bottom. Cook for 3 minutes.

5. Crush tomatoes with your hands in a large bowl, removing any basil, skin, or core pieces.

6. Add tomatoes to the pot and gently bring to a boil, stirring often.

7. Add spareribs back to sauce and stir to incorporate. Add herbs and simmer gently for 2 hours or until ribs begin to fall apart easily. Skim along the way for any fat or impurities that rise to the surface.

8. Taste and adjust seasonings.

8. Add sausage and cook for 30 minutes.

Toss, garnish with fresh herbs and serve with long pastas like pappardelle, grated cheese and thick hunks of good bread. Serve with antipasti, roasted peppers or bruscetta (Below)

Roasted Peppers

3 large red bell peppers, cored and cut into 3 lg. “filets”

2 T Basil, chiffonade (small ribbons)

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 T toasted pine nuts

Olive oil

Pinch of kosher salt

Ground black pepper

1. Grill peppers, skin side down until blackened all over. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap for 15 minutes, reserving pepper juices in the bowl.

2. Under cold running water, rub blackened skin off peppers and dry on paper towels.

3. Cut peppers into thin ribbons (1/4 in.) and place into a bowl with the garlic, basil, pine nuts reserve juices and olive oil and mix well with a fork.

4. Add salt and a few grinds of black pepper, toss, let stand for 15 min at room temp.

5. Toss and serve, adding salt and pepper as necessary with rounds of good Italian bread. Makes an excellent part of any antipasti.

Bruscetta

6 plum or other ripe red tomatoes

3 heaping tablespoons of finely chopped onions

1 small clove garlic, minced

2 T fresh basil, cut into thin ribbons. (chiffonade)

Olive oil

Splash of red wine vinegar

Large pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 rounds sliced Italian bread

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let stand for 30 min.

2. Taste and season bruscetta. Stir well.

3. Preheat an oven to 350 degrees. Arrange rounds on oven rack and bake until toasted. About 5 min.

4. Arrange rounds on plate and, using a slotted spoon, top with tomato mixture. And serve immediately.

Family Style

Three Generations: 

Jonathan Luther, Tiffany Bowers (Luther), Sharon Luther and Mary Dickman. 

Juno Beach, Florida. 12.27.2010

Sarma, Family Style.

Some of my earliest memories are from inside of a kitchen in Depew, New York, looking up at a sea of thick-legged Balkan women cooking up a storm. At the eye of the hurricane was my great grandmother Milka (Millie, we called her) meticulously cutting dough into thin ribbons for her chicken noodle soup and calling out instructions to her daughters (Kay, Louise and Dorothy) and my great grandmother Mary for the final hectic push to turn out yet another massive Serbian Christmas dinner. Each serving plate is laid out on my aunt Dorothy’s large kitchen table, which serves as a staging area for soup - traditionally the first course - then a barrage of dishes. Too many, really. There was spit roasted pig, tended to by my Uncle Joe Dragich and the men of the family, who guarded the swine, drank beer and told stories in the garage. Plates of roasted root vegetables, simmered greens and buttery mashed potatoes would flood the table. And at the center, always Sarma – little rolls of sweet simmered cabbage, ground beef and rice. It is humble peasant cooking in one big pot - simple, deeply flavorful and traditional. A common but uniquely Serbian dish that not only presages modern comfort food, it defines it.

Simple yes, but not easy. Making Sarma involves several very particular stages. A lengthy process that typically allows for the women to gossip in the kitchen for a few hours while the men get loaded in the garage. This works out beautifully for all involved - especially for a little kid like me who could usually bounce from the kitchen to the garage unfettered, pilfering morsels from the table and nasty swigs of warm Genesee beer from Uncle William’s bottle to wash it down.

Making Sarma is something that is handed down from generation to generation. There is no known recipe. Because it does not exist, the only way to learn to make it is to make it with someone who knows. And so, after some years, when I developed a passion for food and cooking, I began to pay more attention to these traditional dishes and decided to document these recipes (There are many more to come, I hope) for the ages. Thankfully, my sister Tiffany and I got the chance this past Christmas to learn how to make Sarma and mashed potatoes first hand from my grandmother Mary Dickman and my mom, Sharon Luther. 

Mary is an amazing woman in her own right and at ninety-two is still sharp. She and her sister Dorothy are the only ones left of their generation and each look out for one another, even though they are a thousand miles apart. Dorothy still lives in Buffalo, where my family settled in the early 1900’s, and Mary lives in South Florida. It was a great afternoon. Just elbow deep in cabbage and raw meat. We even called Dorothy for a quick consult. Every family should spend some time together like this now and then.

 And although the memories of my Aunt Dorothy’s kitchen have some faded edges to them, this time with my family was vivid and beautiful. It was a tacit passing of the flame. For many reasons, I have learned to appreciate these moments tremendously.  Make no mistake, in the end it’s your family who will show up.

After a long and wonderful life, my great grandma Millie passed away peacefully in her sleep in 1992 at the age of 98.  It was my 25th birthday. And although sad, I felt fortunate to have so much time with her on this planet. She and I shared a special bond, and I really felt her presence in the room, sitting quietly in her little corner chair in the kitchen, watching us cook. And I know she was happy.  I just know it. It was her kind of scene.

SARMA

2 heads fresh green cabbage, cored

1 1/2 LBS. ground beef

1 1/2 LBS. ground pork

1 ½ cups long grain rice

1 onion, small dice

2 ribs celery, small dice

2 28 oz cans of sauerkraut, drained and rinsed

2 cans of diced tomatoes

6 pork chops

1 can tomato juice, another ½ can cold water or chicken stock.

Olive Oil

1 TBL. Butter

Recipe:

1. Mix beef and pork, season with salt and pepper

2. In a skillet, over medium high heat, sauté the onion, celery in butter and rendered bacon fat.

3. Add rice and sauté about 3 minutes until rice is fragrant. Add to beef mixture, mix well and reserve.

4. Core cabbage, removing any damaged outer leaves. 


5. In a large pot, cover the cored cabbage with cold salted water and bring to a gentle boil.

6. As cabbage boils, remove outer leaves gently, keeping leaves as intact as possible, shaving off the large outer pieces of the ribs. Reserve any small or torn pieces.

7. Spoon about 1 T beef mixture into each cabbage leaf and roll, carefully tucking edges in and place on a baking sheet. (Should yield about 30 rolls)

8. Line the bottom of a large Dutch oven with small and torn cabbage pieces. Add bottom layer of cabbage rolls, top with sauerkraut and tomatoes; layer another layer of cabbage rolls, top with remaining sauerkraut and tomatoes.

9. Place pork chops on top of sauerkraut; pour tomato juice and water over cabbage mix until just covered. Shake the pan a little to settle the liquid

10. Partially cover and gently bring to a boil over medium high heat, then turn heat to medium and simmer for ninety minutes or until rice is cooked. (To be sure, liberate one of the rolls and test for doneness and seasoning) Adjust accordingly. When done, remove from heat and let cool for 15 min.

11. Serve cabbage rolls with lots of the loose cabbage and tomato gravy over creamy mashed potatoes.

Juno Beach, FL. 12/26/2010

raw

Portrait of Mary Dickman, 92. 12/26/10

Harvest Moon - February 2011

Harvest Moon

February 2011

The farm to table movement is rooted in the manic desire to protect things that are deceased, namely vegetables, pigs, fowl and the like. But Cassie Parsons is also rather fond of the living. As a farmer, it’s her job to be - nurturing pigs, fungi and the odd tuber at Grateful Growers farm in Lincoln County, North Carolina. And now, as a restaurateur in uptown Charlotte, she cares for humans too, by keeping them alive. At Harvest Moon, Parsons only uses, wherever possible, ingredients from within 100 miles of the restaurant. It’s a real life study in sustainability. And one that is noble as hell. The restaurant evolved from a small cart that Ms. Parsons set up at Trade and Tryon to help subsidize her farm. Craig Spitzer, General Manager of the Dunhill had noticed quite a line forming outside the humble Harvest Moon cart.  And so, needing a tenant for the recently vacated Monticello’s, he approached Ms. Parsons to see if there was a desire to take over the space.

On paper, the marriage looks like a horrific mismatch. Like if your dad married some hippie chick from Vermont. At 80 plus years old, the Dunhill is a codger of a hotel. A bona fide landmark, it was built in the gilded Gatsby era, and seems to yearn for a more conservative and formal partner. And Harvest Moon will have a challenge attracting non-hotel guests this location. Located at sixth and Tryon, there are the usual uptown parking garages to navigate (valet?), and the façade needs work if it’s to attract any attention from the street.

There is a small lobby bar that also serves the restaurant, but it’s not really a place you would hang out for a bunch of drinks before dinner, but a martini or a glass of wine, sure. Cocktails are available, but something from the wine list would more suit the fare at Harvest Moon, and there are many humbly priced selections (mostly domestic) by the glass and bottle, and servers are adept at pairing wine with food.

Harvest moon is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast is a necessity to serve Dunhill guests, but it is also a way to take advantage of 5 AM deliveries of dairy and vegetables at their absolute zenith of flavor, as well as the bacon and sausage which are made from Grateful hogs. Splendid, but also pricey and rather inaccessible for non-guests. Pork is a predictable through line at Harvest, and is featured in both salads and sandwiches at lunch, as in the tempting “Bahn Moon” sandwich, an equitable take on the Vietnamese street food and a crispy pressed prosciutto and house made ricotta sandwich with picked turnips. There are also plenty of other choices including several vegan, vegetarian and gluten free options.

The space is simple and understated with a few orb-like chandeliers, gleaming original terrazzo floors and cream-colored walls covered with a few vivid prints of produce and livestock. There is a large communal bank of tables in the middle and a large front table by the window. Dinner seats 40 and is manageable with a just few fresh faced servers that seem to be chugging the Harvest Moon cool aid. Attentive and passionate about the mission, they describe the menu with aplomb and are eager to answer questions. There are sharing plates with artisan cheeses, salumi and excellent sausages, all made in house. A dozen or so small plate starters ($5-$11) vary from salads to noodles to brisket, including a roasted sweet potato and butternut squash soup. Parsons treats this silky soup simply, allowing the considerable flavors of the vegetables to shine. Local farms are noted in the Entrée sections ($16-$23) with Ashley Farm rabbit featured in the cacciatore, and Beaucom’s Best beef in the shepard’s pie.  Predictably there are plenty of pork options, including the signature Tomahawk bone-in pork chop, brined in stout and served with quinoa.

Still, the slow food movement is hardly new, and beyond the feel-good marketing, I found myself wanting the promise of all this hoopla to be fully realized. That is, I want to taste it. And most of the time, Harvest Moon delivers. At first, in subtle ways. A tangle of local greens, lightly dressed with a citrus vinaigrette and housemade goat cheese oozes a peppery wholesomeness. Then, more overt. The vegetal punch from a cooked tuber is noticeable and front and center on my palate. I search for ways to describe it to myself. Terroir, maybe? Soon, I am bombarded by these stimuli as I dig into a special one evening. Chewy and zippy andouille sausage, cheddar grits, plump shrimp and mahi-mahi combine in a stunning display of kitchen talent. Parson nuzzles the gently seared fish atop a mixture of shrimp and cheddar grits, and a low country gravy with okra and root vegetables. As I slice the fish, it sinks in the bowl and continues to cook, evolving the dish ever so slightly, so that my first bite is raw and clean, and the last bite is just cooked through and has absorbed the flavors of the grits and gravy. A huge success and a dish that has me more engaged with each bite. And it’s the kind of dish that allows Parsons to stretch out a little, with superb results, dashing any concerns that she is merely a humble hog farmer. Take notice, Parsons has chops. Desserts are made in house and there are several to choose from each evening, along with hot and delicious French press coffee. “None fresher,” I am assured.

The good news for omnivores is that Charlotte is fortunate to have some remarkable restaurants that fly the “local” flag. Roosters, Good Food on Mountford and Customshop all proudly and conspicuously use locally produced products, and acclaimed Ratcliff on the Green did so before them. Let’s hope this continues.  Like every restaurant, Harvest Moon exists because living things are put to death in the service of feeding humans. Some people, like Cassie Parsons, take the entire process very seriously. We eat, therefore we are, and given the choice, I’d much rather eat animals and vegetables that have lived happy lives and died noble deaths - well cared for and respected. Hell, wouldn’t you? Wouldn’t anyone?

Clean Catch Fish Market | January 2011

Clean Catch Fish Market

2820 Selwyn Ave. Charlotte, NC 
(704) 333-1212

In the northeast, where I grew up, seafood is part of everyday life and there are plenty of fish markets where you can slake your seafood jones all year long. Trips to the shore are not complete without a steamed lobster dripping with butter and lemon or a hunk of sea bass on the grill with fresh herbs, sea salt and olive oil. And on a chilly winter afternoon, there is nothing more satisfying than a steaming mug of chowder, bursting with fresh whole clams and potatoes. So when I moved to Charlotte – only 150 miles from the beach - I just assumed that I would march down to the local fishmonger to purchase fresh seafood. Sadly, I was mistaken. There were no fishmongers, only supermarkets with primarily farm raised fish and a pathetic selection of shellfish and mollusks. Thankfully, Bostonian Bill Ryan was also frustrated with this paradox and opened Clean Catch Fish Market in Selwyn about six months ago with his partner Chef Graham Giacobbe. (A fish freak who worked with Dave Pasternack at Customshop) Graham may be the most passionate and knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about fish and his and his team of chefs will go deep on the origins of each species and how to prepare and serve it. Their passion borders on bestiality. Teach a man to fish indeed. The only frustrating thing about Clean Catch can be their lack of supply at times, but the point is that they simply will not sell you fish that isn’t absolutely fresh. So call ahead or get there early. We spoke to Bill Ryan about his vision for Clean Catch.

You have an extremely abundant knowledge of and an almost fanatical approach to selling fresh fish and shellfish. Where does that come from?

The market is really a combination of passion, knowledge and experience coming from all employees. Everyone lives and loves what they do, we spend an enormous amount of time researching and learning about the fish we sell.

Fresh Catch is as much a global logistics company as it is a seafood retailer. How do you manage the challenges of importing fresh seafood from all over the globe?

It comes down to really four things; a passionate staff, a good understanding of our customers, amazing purveyors and a good long-distance telephone plan. Sourcing fresh seafood is a tremendous challenge. There are a several factors we need to look at every week when we’re making our decisions such as the season, weather conditions, what are customer want and pricing.

You have enthusiastically embraced social media in your marketing strategy. (The facebook page, email and twitter feeds alerting you to what’s available each day is a masterstroke) But social media has typically been a young man’s game. Any of them buying New Zealand Barramundi as a result of your facebook and twitter posts?

We are amazed and love how our customers have embraced our social media. From posting pictures of their beautiful creations to complimenting one of our chefs on a recipe request, we love FB. Because our products are so fresh and perishable we want and need for our customers to know what we have every day. Social media has been the perfect vehicle for this type of communication.

 Any tips for home cooks that may be intimidated by fresh seafood?

Don’t be scared of fish. Fish when purchased fresh should be simply prepared. Clean Catch will only serve fresh fish and Chef Graham and his team will walk you through a simple meal for a Tuesday night or a show stopper will impress your family and friends over the weekend.

What’s the best way to prepare “crudo?”

Crudo’s flavor palate should be fresh and clean. Dressed with olive oil, sea salt, and citrus juice such as lemon juice and sometimes vinegar is classic. But it’s always fun to try new and interesting ingredients such sriracha, soy sauce, ginger, jalapeno. 

Andrew Blair's | December 2010

Andrew Blair's

December, 2010

Mark Jacksina has brought some soul to the reanimated Andrew Blair’s on Montford road. His refreshed and updated menu shows some of the simple (and largely affordable) bistro cooking that made his previous restaurant Lulu so much fun. Gone are ill-designed and downright weird dishes like clam chowder pot pie, and in their place is exciting fresh selections like roasted sea scallops, braised short ribs and black cherry plank salmon. One of the dishes that Chef Jacksina has brought with him from Lulu is the moules et frites. A coneful of crisp pommes frites accompany three flavors of steamed mussels - Mariniere, Bangkok and “Beer Belly.” And, save for a few “mudders”, the Mariniere mussels are tender and cooked well, swimming in a fragrant pool of white wine, garlic and thyme. A “St. Louis rib special is a steal at $9.99 with soft and tender ribs powdered with a crisp and savory dry rub.  And a dish that shows Jacksina’s experience with Middle Eastern flavors is the excellent lamb and gnocchi. Tender braised leg of lamb is served atop roated butternut squash and housemade winter squash gnocchi. The soft dumplings pair well with the flavorful lamb and is a satisfying dish with a warm comforting core and a toasty edge of paprika and cinnamon.

The space hasn’t really changed much. The bar is still a good place to grab a quick drink or a bite to eat before heading out to the many places along Montford road. They also have the huge function room just off the bar that is still a fine place to have an event or to catch a DJ late night. But design has never been the problem. Mostly, the menu was. But with Jacksina now banging pots and a renewed sense of who they are, Andrew Blair’s demands your attention. 

Meatballs and Marinara

Helen’s Meatballs

This recipe was taught to Melissa by her late mother Helen. She was a good lady that left this world way too soon, and she is dearly missed. But one of the things you learn as you get older is that the important things never die. Or at least, they shouldn’t. Especially meatballs like this.  This mixture of ground veal, pork and beef give the meatballs a tender silkiness, yet they hold together very well. Serve these with spaghetti, or as a sandwich with melted provolone or mozzarella on a crusty roll with lost of the sauce. If made a bit smaller (like ping pong balls) they are also an excellent antipasti or appetizer.

1 Lb. Ground Beef

1 Lb. Ground Pork

1 Lb. Ground Veal

3 Eggs

6 Slices bread, crusts removed, soaked in water and squeezed "dry"

½ C onions, finely chopped

¼ C Italian Parsley, finely chopped

½ C whole milk

3 shakes of Worcestershire sauce

1 C dried bread crumbs

1 ¼ C Parmesan Cheese

1 T Chopped garlic

½ t Garlic powder

Red pepper flakes to taste

S&P to taste

Recipe:

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and mix very well.

2. Roll into desired size (we like them about the size of billiard balls) and place on a baking sheet. (Should make about 25 meatballs)

3. Bake on a greased cookie sheet for 30 min. (This allows some of the considerable fat to bake out of the meatballs. It’s a bit easier than skimming the sauce and is a bit “lighter”)

4. In a large dutch oven, warm about 2 quarts Everyday Marinara. (See below)

5. Remove from sheet with a slotted spoon and gently (gently!) lower meatballs into sauce and shake pan to settle meatballs.

6. Simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Serve immediately. Will keep refrigerated for one week or frozen for six months.

Everyday Marinara

This is an incredibly simple and delicious sauce that comes together rather quickly and can be used in a variety of applications. Use to make lasagne and chicken parmesan, or simply toss with spaghetti, olives, and good aged parmesan. This sauce is only as good as the tomatoes you use. We are partial to the canned “san marzano” style.

     3 28 oz. cans whole “San Marzano” tomatoes, removing any basil

One large Vidalia onion, medium dice

4 cloves garlic, minced

¼ C Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup fresh basil, chopped

¾ C Red Wine (something hearty like a chianti, zin or cab)

1 T red pepper flakes

1. Sweat onions in olive oil until almost translucent, about 3 min

2. Add garlic, being careful not to scorch

3. Deglaze pan with red wine, stirring up brown bits

4. Add tomatoes with their juice and the herbs and stir well, breaking up tomatoes.

5. Simmer for 30 minutes.

6. Adjust seasonings, adding salt, pepper and red pepper flakes to taste.

7. Blend with a hand blender until slightly thickened.

Makes about 2 Quarts.

Refrigerate for one week or freeze for six months.

Carloina Style "Quick" Ribs

Carolina Style “Quick” Ribs

Here is a flavorful and smoky way to do ribs on the smoker when you don’t have an extra 8 hrs on your hands. My mom taught me how to do them in the oven, wrapped in foil. Then I finish them on the grill or smoker, depending on how much time I have. The ribs essentially braise in their own liquid in the oven and the moist heat keeps them tender. After they cook this way, they seem to take on a good bit of smoke as well. Roll back the amount of crushed red pepper if you want to mellow them out a little. Serve with the sauce on the side. Cold beer goes great with these ribs as well as an assertive red wine like an Oregon pinot noir or an inky zinfandel.

Serve with: Cole Slaw, BBQ beans, Pickles

Ingredients:

4 racks of baby back ribs

1 1/2 Cups dry rub


1. Preheat and oven to 300 degrees. (If smoking, set up your rig)


2. Cut each rack into 2 sections, removing the thin membrane.(Or ask butcher to remove)


3. Coat liberally with the dry rub (Recipe Below), ensuring ribs are covered all over.


4. Wrap each section in a packet of aluminum foil, making sure not to puncture foil.


5. Place on a baking sheet seam side up and bake for one hour if smoking, two hours if grilling.


6. Remove ribs, carefully unwrap from foil, reserving rendered juices.


7. Transfer to your smoking rig and smoke between 225 - 275 degrees. 


8. Baste periodically with the reserved rib juices for at least one hour or until ribs begin to separate from the bone. (Insert a fork between the bones and twist. There should be very little resistance and the ribs should separate easily)


9. If grilling, cook ribs about 15 minutes on medim fire until a thick char begins to form on the outside of the ribs and they are heated through.


Serve with Carolina bbq sauce (Recipe Below)

DRY RUB:

This is a very versatile rub that you can use on almost anything: pork shoulder, beef tenderloin, steaks and chops, chicken – even fish. You can make this up to 6 months ahead of time.

2 parts:

Smoked Paprika

Regular paprika

Cumin

1 part:

Ground Ginger

Thyme

Parsley

Garlic powder

Crushed Red Pepper

Kosher Salt

Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, reserve

 Carolina Style BBQ Sauce

This quick sauce is the essence of Eastern NC style ‘que cooking. Tart and spicy with a hint of earthy sweetness.

¼ cup rendered rib juices

2 Cups Cider Vinegar

½ C tupelo honey

Crushed Red Pepper

1 roasted jalepeno, thickly sliced (optional)

S&P to taste

Tabasco to Taste

Heat the above in a saucepan, simmer for 10 minutes and serve