Andrew Blair's | December 2010

Andrew Blair's

December, 2010

Mark Jacksina has brought some soul to the reanimated Andrew Blair’s on Montford road. His refreshed and updated menu shows some of the simple (and largely affordable) bistro cooking that made his previous restaurant Lulu so much fun. Gone are ill-designed and downright weird dishes like clam chowder pot pie, and in their place is exciting fresh selections like roasted sea scallops, braised short ribs and black cherry plank salmon. One of the dishes that Chef Jacksina has brought with him from Lulu is the moules et frites. A coneful of crisp pommes frites accompany three flavors of steamed mussels - Mariniere, Bangkok and “Beer Belly.” And, save for a few “mudders”, the Mariniere mussels are tender and cooked well, swimming in a fragrant pool of white wine, garlic and thyme. A “St. Louis rib special is a steal at $9.99 with soft and tender ribs powdered with a crisp and savory dry rub.  And a dish that shows Jacksina’s experience with Middle Eastern flavors is the excellent lamb and gnocchi. Tender braised leg of lamb is served atop roated butternut squash and housemade winter squash gnocchi. The soft dumplings pair well with the flavorful lamb and is a satisfying dish with a warm comforting core and a toasty edge of paprika and cinnamon.

The space hasn’t really changed much. The bar is still a good place to grab a quick drink or a bite to eat before heading out to the many places along Montford road. They also have the huge function room just off the bar that is still a fine place to have an event or to catch a DJ late night. But design has never been the problem. Mostly, the menu was. But with Jacksina now banging pots and a renewed sense of who they are, Andrew Blair’s demands your attention.